A Warm Welcome in Alaska
Fairbanks isn’t always as cold as outsiders imagine. On this early September day, the air held steady at 53°F—a comfortable contrast to the steam rising from the geothermal pools at Chena Hot Springs Resort, about 60 miles northeast of the city. The drive itself is simple: follow Chena Hot Springs Road until the very end, where the pavement leads directly to the resort. One tip—make sure your gas tank is full before setting out. Aside from the Hot Springs Gas Station five minutes in the opposite direction of my lodgings, I didn’t see another for nearly an hour.
The Hot Springs
Chena Hot Springs Resort has been a gathering place for over a century. In 1905, brothers Robert and Thomas Swan discovered the hot springs while searching for relief from Robert’s rheumatism. George Wilson homesteaded the site the following year, developing it into a small health spa. By 1911, the area featured a bathhouse, a stable, and a dozen log cabins. Over the decades, its reputation as a therapeutic escape spread across Alaska. In 1998, Bernie and Connie Parks-Karl purchased the property with a vision for sustainability and renewal. They introduced Alaska’s first Organic Rankine Cycle (ORC) geothermal power plant, reducing dependence on diesel, and added the Aurora Ice Museum to the resort’s offerings. Today, Chena is known both for its mineral-rich waters and its pioneering green energy.
Upon arriving, I checked in at the front desk to organize my day. First stop: the hot springs themselves. Tip: bring flip flops, a bathing suit, and a few coins (50 cents) for the locker. Towels are provided, and if you’ve forgotten your essentials, bathing suits and sandals are available for purchase. The thermal spa was fabulous. I walked the length of the hot springs, letting the smooth gravel massage my feet as steam rose around me. After long days of travel and touring, this soak felt like a reset—20 minutes of heat that soothed my body and lifted the travel fatigue.
Innovation and Sustainability
The story of Chena today is as much about innovation as it is about relaxation. Since 1998, the Parks-Karls have revitalized the resort with a focus on sustainability. Their geothermal power system generates renewable energy on site, and geothermally heated greenhouses supply fresh herbs and vegetables to the restaurant year-round. In their workshop, tools like a laser cutter and 3D printer are used to create items for sale in the gift shop—a modern twist on Alaskan self-sufficiency.
The Aurora Ice Museum
The Aurora Ice Museum is the largest year-round ice environment in the world. Inside, glowing sculptures, ice chandeliers, and a frozen bar create a surreal atmosphere. During my visit, a professional carver gave a live demonstration, shaping martini glasses from a block of ice. Steve Brice and his wife, Heather, oversee the artistry inside the Ice Museum, ensuring its sculptures are both preserved and ever-evolving. With decades of expertise, Steve has showcased his work at Olympic Arts Festivals in Japan (1998), Utah (2002), and Italy (2006). Beyond his performances, he’s transformed the field of ice sculpting by creating hundreds of specialized tools now used by artists worldwide.
As part of the experience, you can sip an Appletini served in one of Steve’s carved glasses. Tip: dress in layers before entering. Heavy coats are provided inside, but since they’re kept indoors, they’re already cold when you put them on.
The Kennel Tour
Adventure at Chena isn’t limited to soaking. The on-site kennel is home to nearly 90 sled dogs, each bred and trained for stamina and focus. Guided by Mitchell, I learned how mushing is not just a sport but a way of life in Alaska. Unlike the thick-coated, blue-eyed huskies we often picture, these dogs are lean, athletic, and bred for endurance. Their sweet demeanors made meeting them a joy, and watching their excitement underscored what Mitchell described as being “in their DNA.”
Mitchell also shared how mushing isn’t only practiced on trails—it’s taught in schools. In several rural and Native communities across Alaska, programs weave sled dog traditions into education, teaching students everything from harnessing and dog care to leadership and teamwork. Initiatives like the Frank Attla Youth & Sled Dog Program bring mushing into classrooms, while districts such as Yupiit include it alongside traditional skills like fishing and hunting. For many Alaskan youth, mushing is both cultural heritage and hands-on learning. The kennel tour also touched on the legendary Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race, a true test of stamina and focus for both dogs and mushers.
Dinner and Aurora Anticipation
Before leaving, I had dinner at the resort’s restaurant, enjoying a meal of Alaskan scallops and salmon. Afterwards, I returned to my lodgings at A Taste of Alaska Lodge to prepare for the aurora borealis.
Since my arrival in Fairbanks, the cloud cover has been too thick to reveal the high aurora activity taking place above. But on my drive back from the hot springs, the skies began to shift—clouds parted and patches of blue opened up. Back at the lodge, I walked down to the viewing station just below my room, set on a gentle hill with a wide view of the night sky.
I laid out my jacket, camera, and running shoes by the door so that when the aurora alarm chimes in the middle of the night, I can leap out of bed and head to the viewing point alongside other guests. This moment has been on my bucket list for longer than I can remember. And with the Aurora app sending positive reminders, my inner child was buzzing —equal parts restless and thrilled, waiting for the sky to put on its show. At around 11:00 p.m., Laurie Yuenger, a local Aurora Wizard guide with Gondwana Ecotours, rang the alert—and off I went, heart racing. Under a canopy of stars, the northern lights began to shimmer and slowly swirl across the sky. To see their colours unfurl with my own eyes was an awestruck, bucket-list moment—one that felt both otherworldly and deeply grounding.
At 2:30 a.m., Laurie chimed the aurora alarm twice, and this time the sky was brighter. I jumped out of bed, donned my jacket and joined the others. Chasing the aurora is as much about patience as it is about wonder—every alert a reminder that nature reveals her magic on her own time.
The Takeaway
The more time I spend in Fairbanks, the more I see how the past continues to shape its identity. From century-old hot springs first sought out by miners, to dog sledding traditions carried proudly into the present, to innovative uses of geothermal power, Fairbanks weaves its history into everyday life. It’s a city that looks forward without losing sight of where it has come from—a balance that makes each experience here feel both grounded and extraordinary.
Photo Credits: All photos by the author unless otherwise specified.
Every journey leaves a mark, and small choices can make a big difference. Choosing eco-friendly stays, supporting local communities, and being mindful of plastic use help preserve the beauty of the places we visit. Respecting wildlife, conserving resources, and travelling sustainably ensure future generations can experience the same wonders. By treading lightly and embracing responsible travel, we create meaningful connections and lasting memories. Here’s to adventures that inspire and footprints that honour our planet. Safe and mindful travels!
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