Montreal is celebrated for many things: its vibrant arts scene, diverse neighbourhoods, and, of course, its bagels. As a lover of authentic food experiences, I knew that no visit to Montreal would be complete without sampling its iconic bagels. So, during my recent trip to the city, I made my way to the legendary Saint-Viateur Bagel.
The Story Behind Saint-Viateur Bagel
The story behind St-Viateur Bagel is as remarkable as the bagels themselves. In 1953, Myer Lewkowicz, a Polish immigrant who had endured the horrors of World War II, arrived in Canada with little knowledge of baking. Born into a poor Jewish family in a small village near Krakow, he survived the Buchenwald concentration camp, where he dreamed of nothing more than a simple piece of bread. Post-war, he found himself in Germany until Jewish Immigration Aid Services of Canada helped him settle in Montreal in 1952.
Lewkowicz’s journey into the world of bagels began when he started working at Hyman Seligman’s Montreal Bagel Bakery. Although he had no background in baking, Lewkowicz learned quickly and embraced the trade. In just five years, alongside his wife Emma and his mentor Seligman, he opened his own shop on St-Viateur Street, which would go on to become one of Montreal’s most beloved landmarks—St-Viateur Bagel.
What Makes Them So Good?
From day one, they have focused on using the simplest ingredients—flour, water, eggs, honey, and malt—and skipping any preservatives or artificial additives. The dough is hand-rolled, boiled in honey water, and baked in a wood-fired oven, giving their bagels that unique texture and flavor.
The shop has remained a family-owned business, passing down its values and secrets through generations. They’ve expanded since their humble beginnings, adding a café and spreading their bagels beyond Montreal, but they’ve kept their heart rooted in the tradition that started it all. Today, Saint-Viateur continues to be a landmark, not just for Montrealers, but for visitors like me who come to get a taste of their famously delicious bagels.
My Experience at Saint-Viateur Bagel
I arrived at Saint-Viateur eager to see what makes these bagels so special. The place has a welcoming, no-frills vibe, with an exterior that harks back to the days when food was simply about quality. Inside, the process of making the bagels is on full display: dough being hand-rolled, boiled, and then placed into the wood-fired oven. The aroma alone was intoxicating, filling the air with a warm, slightly sweet scent that made my mouth water.
One thing I noticed as soon as I walked in was the sign stating that they only accept cash. For those not in the know, this could be a bit of a surprise. Luckily, they have an ATM on-site to accommodate visitors caught unaware. The cash-only policy felt like a nod to the past, reminding me of simpler times when transactions were as straightforward as the bagels themselves.
Despite the bustling atmosphere, the staff moved at a fast pace. In no time, my dozen bagels were neatly packed: 6 plain, 3 sesame, and 3 poppy seed. The hardest part was resisting the urge to tear into them right then and there. But I had a plan: to share these bagels with my family and neighbors back in Toronto, many of whom originally hail from Montreal. I did give one to the valet at my hotel and I couldn’t resist sampling one when I got to my room. It was delicious! Sorry for the poppy seeds on the carpet Sofitel!
A Tradition Worth Sharing
Bagels are more than just a breakfast staple—they’re a tradition. And for Montrealers, they carry a sense of pride and nostalgia. As I handed out the bagels to my neighbours in Toronto, I watched as their faces lit up with excitement. “Real bagels,” they said, reminiscing about childhood mornings in Montreal, where a fresh Saint-Viateur bagel was the perfect start to the day.
Saint-Viateur’s longevity and dedication to quality are what make it truly special. Unlike mass-produced bagels, theirs are handmade, ensuring every bite embodies the skill and love of the people who crafted it. It’s this level of care that has kept their reputation as the best bagels in Montreal, if not the world.
Why Saint-Viateur Bagel Stands Out
Montreal bagels differ from the New York style in several key ways, and Saint-Viateur captures these differences perfectly. They are smaller, denser, and have a slightly sweeter taste due to being boiled in honey water. Baking in a wood-fired oven also gives them a crispy crust that crackles as you bite into it, contrasting with the soft, chewy inside.
Saint-Viateur’s commitment to quality and tradition extends to every aspect of their process. They use a recipe that has been refined over decades, maintaining a focus on simple ingredients and traditional techniques. This results in a bagel with a flavour profile that’s both subtle and rich, with a hint of sweetness balanced by the savoury crunch of the seeds on top.
If you ever find yourself in Montreal, a visit to Saint-Viateur Bagel is a must. Come prepared with cash (or use the ATM inside), and be ready to witness the magic of bagel-making. Whether you choose plain, sesame, poppy seed, or any of their other varieties, you’re not just buying a bagel—you’re savoring a tradition that has been cherished for over six decades.
Enjoy! Read about my visit to another iconic Montreal landmark, Schwartz’s Deli!
St-Viateur Flagship Bakery
- St-Viateur Bagel Shop263, rue St-Viateur O., Montréal, QC, H2V 1Y1 view map
- 1-514-276-8044
- Monday to Sunday: 6:00am – midnight
- View bagel menu here
As you embark on your travels, remember that our journey leaves an impact. Embrace eco-friendly accommodations, support local communities, and reduce plastic use. Respect wildlife by observing from afar and conserve resources like water and energy. Choose sustainable transportation, leave no trace behind, and participate in conservation efforts. Educate yourself and others about the environment you’re exploring. Let’s ensure that we tread lightly on our planet, leaving only footprints of kindness and taking home memories that inspire others to protect our beautiful world. Happy responsible travels!